We're not in Kansas anymore!
February 28, 2025
Karin Rockstad, Spanish translator, WSET Educator, DipWSET Candidate, SWS, FWS, IWS, Certified Rioja Educator, Certified Advanced Cava Educator, Certified Sherry Wine Specialist, Albariño Ambassador, Sommelier 1
@garbanzo.grrl
This article first appeared on my Substack: https://open.substack.com/pub/garbanzogrrl/p/barcelona-wine-week-2025?r=9i2m1&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web&showWelcomeOnShare=true
With double digit growth year after year (the fair only began in 2020) and an increase of nearly 40% in terms of square meters since last year, BWW is now a force to be reckoned with. If those aren’t enough stats for you, how about that it’s nearly doubled the number of exhibitors (to more than 1200) since its inception? In addition, more than 25,000 visitors streamed in and out of the doors. Nope. We’re not in Kansas anymore.
In a discussion with BWW’s Director, Céline Pérez and Javier Pagés, the fair’s President, I learned that the growth is intentional yet purposeful. Spain is a huge player on the world wine map but has been in the shadows of large fairs like Vinitaly and Prowein.
However, BWW is not set out to copy these shows. In fact, Pagés used the word “democratization” when describing the model. The size of the stands are limited, so that 1) wineries don’t have to spend a lot on their presence, and 2) a larger stand won’t overwhelm the smaller ones around it. This makes sense on so many levels. Wine buyers and tasters can be much more nimble when moving from stand to stand without getting “stuck” in a huge booth. I can attest to entering massive stands at the other international fairs with the feeling that I was in a bar or restaurant—it’s hard to leave. Exhibitors with larger budgets can still showcase more wines or hold small presentations, but they also don’t have to risk spending a lot of money on a gigantic set-up that only a few attendees may pass through.
Wineries are grouped by Denominación de Origen (DO) and the huge, colorful overhead signs made it easy to see what was where. Considering that there were more than 80 DOs this year, this was helpful. The eye-level signage has also improved since I was last there in 2022. Because of such growth, the fair was spread between two buildings, with a busy city street to cross. Whether the choice of using these two particular buildings (there are others in the Fira Barcelona complex) was intentional or just due to availability is a challenge that needs to be addressed, which both Pérez and Pagés recognize.
Ok, so, there you have a little of BWW’s history with an eye to the future.
How did I spend my days? Tasting, listening, and talking. One of the best parts of the show are the self-service areas, one in each building. Even some of the DOs had their own line-ups. You can take your time or power through them.
A few of the highlights:
*Finca Villalobillos Airén Pie Franco 2023. This wine is from 89-year-old, pre-phylloxera vines from the Toledo area of central Spain. Airén is thought of as mostly used for brandy production or as a bulk wine, but when given a little love, you get this delicious example.
*Lafou de Rams Garnatxa Blanca 2018. This one is from 58-year-old vines in the DO Terra Alta, which excels at Garnatxa/Garnacha Blanca.
*Leonor Palo Cortado from González Byass from the DO Jerez-Xèrés-Sherry. Just a gem!
As far as listening, there were over 160 speakers this year on topics ranging from climate change, women in wine, old vines, how to connect with wine consumers, how wines get on a hotel’s wine list, the terroirs of specific DOs, to the future of glass bottles, and much more.
I attended a presentation by Andrea Miró Ràfales and Sarah Jane Evans, MW on the first Spanish non-dealcoholized 9% dry wine guaranteed under a DO (DO Terra Alta). Just the description is a mouthful. But what a mouthful of bright, delicious sunshine! The wine is made from Parellada, a grape that is naturally low in sugar; therefore, science tells us that with less sugar, the less alcohol the yeast will generate when eating that sugar. You may know Parellada as one of the main grapes used in Cava, and you may know Terra Alta as a DO specializing in Garnatxa Blanca, but Andrea’s family and the others that form the group Agrícola Corbera d’Ebre that made this wine believe that they should utilize what’s around them, and there is quite a bit of Parellada in their area.
The wine is called Nakens, which comes from the word nak, meaning “not hidden.” To English speakers it seems similar to “naked,” and in a sense it is. Andrea says it’s the “naked expression” of Parellada.
Nakens was tasted next to L’Home Peix Blanco, another 100% Parellada made by the group, but at 11% abv. My take on the comparison? Both had floral, citrus, and white fruit notes with refreshing acidity to make you want to take another sip on a hot day. The Nakens was slightly lighter-bodied on the palate, but this is perfect when you want to take another sip on a hot day. 😎
I did a fair amount of talking at the fair too—talking to producers Jordi and Francesc from Alta Alella, to Bideona export manager Caroline, to Rioja education director Peter, to Esther from DO Jumilla, to Amaya of Spanish Wine Lover, Zara of Savour Academy, and so many more about the state of Spanish wine in Spain and in the rest of the world. This is the best way to learn what producers are facing in the vineyard, what consumers like or don’t like, what’s happening with costs, urban encroachment, which countries are excited about Spanish wine and which ones are tailing off. There is so much going on and wine magazines just scratch the surface.
A special treat for me was talking to my two favorite Elenas: Elena Pacheco of Viña Elena in Jumilla and Rioja’s Elena Corzana. I helped out during a harvest at Viña Elena a few years ago and it was fun to find out how their Garnacha project is going. Elena Corzana’s Maturana Tinta 2021 just blew my mind when I tasted it a little over a year ago and I love how she uses the clay amphorae from her local area to mature some of her wines.
Just like Dorothy and Toto in the Wizard of Oz, Barcelona Wine Week has left Kansas, so to speak. I’m excited to see what the next adventure will bring for this evolving event.
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